I’ll start with: I’m feeling better. No more symptoms, but I assume I’m still testing positive, so I’m being cautious. Fun fact: it is very humid here, and humidity and mask-wearing is no bueno. Will is still testing negative. 🤷‍♀️ (I’m going to keep milking this two-hour nap thing for all it’s worth, though.)

Last night, it was so humid in our room, Will got up and opened the French windows to give us some air. This was at approximately 3 am, when roving bands of garbage collectors fill the streets, and the sounds of shouts and broken glass filled the air. Groaning, we closed the windows and suffered on. Right now, we’re in bed with the windows open, sounds of the street floating up to us, and thunder rumbling in the distance. Weirdly, given that it’s night and a thunderstorm brewing, there’s a bird trilling right outside the window. It’s lovely, and after we leave for Madrid tomorrow, I’m going to miss this.

The main thing today was that we attended the Pilgrim’s mass at noon. It was so full that they turned people away, and we found ourselves standing in a side alcove for the hour. At the end, we saw the botafumeiro, the swinging incense, which was quite impressive.

We also just wandered a lot. I bought a dress at Zara (you have no idea how sick I am of these clothes), replenished our toothpaste supply, walked up and down narrow streets. There are a million souvenir shops (regalos) around, but few of their wares seem satisfying. Before dinner we went to a park and people and perro-watched, and ran into a Spanish guy we’d met on the Camino. Also, ice cream. 🙌

While I was busy being sick, Will apparently got very food-adventurous. Now he orders pulpa (octopus) at the drop of a hat, and insists the suckers don’t even bother him. (It’s a nope from me, and not just because of the texture. Any Sy Montgomery fans out there?)

After dinner, we wandered back to the cathedral square one last time, just as thunder rumbled and rain started to sprinkle. Tomorrow, it’s off to Madrid.