The road from Sarria was much busier than we’re used to—it’s the shortest distance (about 100km) you can be on the walk to Santiago and receive an official compostela. And so, we walked with large groups of students, and some people noticeably wearing non-Camino clothes, and a few more people with dogs.

Today, we’re four warm days from Santiago. Everyone is a little beat up. Today the sun got to me in that long unshaded stretch into Portomarín. This morning, the trash can in our albergue bathroom was filled with bloody bandages—someone in our bunk room has been having problems with blisters. Tonight we went to eight o’clock mass, and I noticed that the man next to me had two completely black toenails. He also rubbed his right calf during the entire service, even when standing. We met some women at a rest stop this morning who told me that they had taped nearly every part of their bodies in their walk from St. Jean Pied-de-Port. I have my knee taped, my big toe Compeed and bandaged, and I’ve rubbed a sore on my armpit from my backpack straps. Will’s hugest injury, now that his vasculitis has calmed down a bit, is a hellacious farmer’s tan.

And now, dear reader, I am tired. My head is still pounding a bit from the sun, and at 10:02, I can barely keep my eyelids open. Tomorrow is a longer day to Palais de Rey… and I need my sleep if I’m going to make it. 😴 – Paula