Yesterday I took 600 mg of ibuprofen, rubbed my shoulders and calves with arnica, and fell into a dreamless sleep. We had agreed that today would be a rest day—my knee is behaving as if it’s dislocated (yes, again), but nothing I shouldn’t be able to handle with some smart decisions ahead. Will’s legs look like he applied sunscreen in the most haphazard manner possible, but it turns out he has a bit of (harmless) exercise-induced vasculitis. So today…. we rested. And it was lovely.

And then we took a taxi to O Cebriero and I didn’t feel the slightest bit bad about it. We arrived in time to see the bikers pass through on their way to villages many km ahead, checked into our albergue and wandered the town.

After the pilgrim’s blessing, we met up for a communal meal at a bar literally a stone’s throw from the church. This is the great thing about meals in the Camino: there were four of us at a table for six, and two others appeared in the doorway, and they joined us. There’s never hesitation about this—it just happens.

We told stories, shared pictures, encouraged each other, ate like fiends and enjoyed a bit too much wine. It’s amazing how big the world is, and how small at the same time.

Tomorrow, a steep descent to Triacastela. Tonight: sleep. ❤️