We’re walking the Camino de Santiago in June 2022. Come along with us!

Day 6: O Cebreiro

Yesterday I took 600 mg of ibuprofen, rubbed my shoulders and calves with arnica, and fell into a dreamless sleep. We had agreed that today would be a rest day—my knee is behaving as if it’s dislocated (yes, again), but nothing I shouldn’t be able to handle with some smart decisions ahead. Will’s legs look like he applied sunscreen in the most haphazard manner possible, but it turns out he has a bit of (harmless) exercise-induced vasculitis. So today…. we rested. And it was lovely.

We woke late, had croissant and churros (breakfast of champs) and wandered the streets of Villafranca de Bierzo.
We watched some pulpo (octopus) being prepared in an open-air market. You know me and textures, y’all, so this was a nope. Also I’m pretty sure octopi are smarter than we are.

And then we took a taxi to O Cebriero and I didn’t feel the slightest bit bad about it. We arrived in time to see the bikers pass through on their way to villages many km ahead, checked into our albergue and wandered the town.

O Cebriero is gorgeous—a tiny mountain town in the region of Galicia. Stone buildings, cobblestone streets, a few restaurants/bars and a very cool old cathedral. We went to 7 o’clock mass followed by a pilgrim’s blessing in multiple languages—all the languages represented by our fellow travelers.
We sat on a stone ledge and looked down at a farmer working on a terraced hillside. If this guy can get crops out of this nearly vertical (and ingenious) landscape, I should be able to get something to grow in my raised bed planter. #goals
Zoom in on this if you can—pictures don’t capture just how many layers of countryside are spread out before us.
The road past O Cebriero.
For lunch, we sampled Galician cheese, and even though I was wary of the pink one on the far right (they sneak jamón into just about everything around here), it was delicious.

After the pilgrim’s blessing, we met up for a communal meal at a bar literally a stone’s throw from the church. This is the great thing about meals in the Camino: there were four of us at a table for six, and two others appeared in the doorway, and they joined us. There’s never hesitation about this—it just happens.

We told stories, shared pictures, encouraged each other, ate like fiends and enjoyed a bit too much wine. It’s amazing how big the world is, and how small at the same time.

Tomorrow, a steep descent to Triacastela. Tonight: sleep. ❤️


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